New Zealand DIY
At this stage of my life, zero chance to take one month holiday at winter time, I had not yet considered New Zealand as a possible destination, but this year, willing to visit the Cook Islands, and being Auckland a base to reach them with a low cost flight, I thought, while I was there, I could also dedicate it a few days.
In hindsight, I cheered for my choice, because I had the opportunity to meet a very friendly and organized population, and a country that has impressed me for its CIVILIZATION and CLEANLINESS, and that made me breathe a great sense of freedom, wandering around extraordinarily beautiful open spaces, without the presence of other human beings.
I was stunned to note the care which is dedicated to public spaces, in the outstanding parks not only there is no litter around, but even cigarette butts. The only “waste” on the beaches, battered by winter storms, are woody debris, and not bottles and plastic bags, and other human waste.
On the other hand, I think it is easy to live in only 4 million, in a territory as large as Great Britain.
In some towns hostels or tourist offices, the drawings of children on ecological themes, such as “whales are friends, not food” are displayed. This nation has become champion of the ecological cause, just remember that Green Peace has been founded in New Zealand
FLIGHT
Emirates, 1079 € tax incl.
7/16/11 – EK092 – Milan 22.20 – Dubai 06.25 (+1)
7/17/11 – EK434 – Dubai 10.25 – Auckland 13.35 (+1) with 4 hours connection in Brisbane
8/12/11 – EK407 – Auckland 17.45 – Dubai 05.45 (+1) with 2 hours connection in Melbourne
8/13/11 – EK093 – Dubai 09.05 – Milan 13.45
The flight is eternal, it seems to me it’s 27 hours!
I did count the miles on the return:
2639 miles from Auckland to Melbourne – three hours and a half flight
11656 miles from Melbourne to Dubai – nearly 13 hours of flight
4700 miles from Dubai to Milan – 5 hours of flight
AIRPORTS
DUBAI
I was disappointed with the much-vaunted (on the Emirates website) Terminal 3, gaudy jewelry stores and electronics shops to boredom. Very few toilets, and queues to access them, they could build some less boutiques, and some more toilets.
However, nothing to complain about the flight, perfect connections, varied entertainment. On the Dubai-Milan and Milan-Dubai flight, in my opinion, there is even too much to eat (breakfast and one meal). It ‘s true, however, that the more people have a full belly and the less disturb, the more stay sit to gorge, the less fuck around in the corridors.
AUCKLAND
It’s in the world top ten list
I love its aesthetics, Scandinavian style wooden floors make it look cozy, compared to Suvarnabhumi, just to mention one.
The tourism organization is an A mark with praise. At arrivals hall, in junction corridors leading to the Immigration, there are shelves with hundreds of leaflets. At the departures hall, between the restaurants and gates, other brochures for all the states of the South Pacific (Fiji, New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Cook, etc.).
After baggage claim and before exit, very efficient, prepared, and sprightly pensioners, recruited as volunteers, work at information kiosks. Besides, there are boards with lists of the main hotels, all reachable with a free call, and telephones next available.
For those who have rented a car, the same holds true.
The city center can be reached by public bus, it costs a few dollars, or with the direct bus to Britomart Central Station (16 NZD). Then there are the shuttles around the hotels, at least 30 NZD.
IMMIGRATION
Polite, but strict officers. At first arrival I had no problems, when back from Rarotonga, evidently they feared that I had expatriate to get a second visa. Reassured by my return ticket, they still wanted to know every detail about the plans of my stay, my hostel, what I wanted to visit, etc. (Thank goodness I had already read something on the Lonely Planet on the beach at Rarotonga)
CUSTOMS
Sensitive subject. Already on the plane messages on the screens give information on how to behave. The easiest thing is to declare everything, even the things for which you have doubts.
Already close to the baggage claim belt, so before the customs counters, there are some officers who can clear your doubts. Since I had in my beauty case some plant products, in particular Senegalese shea butter, and essential teatree oil from who knows where, I was in doubt whether to declare them or not, but I was told no worries for these items.
It is compulsory to declare if you have, at your feet or in your bag, knurled sole shoes with which you walked on some foreign soil, bringing some lumps in New Zealand. You have to declare if you have a mask you snorkeled with in other countries, you have to declare if you have food with you (the fresh one, like honey or cheese will be sequestered, unless it is a New Zealand brand).
ACCOMODATION
Paradise for DIY, New Zealand offers solutions for all budgets, and there is a big offer in the economy segment. Campsites and holiday parks are situated in beautiful locations. The cleaning standards are very high. The hostels kitchens are very well organized, sugar, tea, coffee are usually free, and guests, even the young ones, observe the rules which impose to leave everything clean and tidy.
One thing that shocked me a little is that in many places there is no heating !! I have only visited the Northern Island, which has a mild winter weather, but they told me it is the same in the South, which is much colder.
Many hostels have electric heaters, which are useless in some cases. Hot water boules are available, and useful, much more than I thought. The most modern hostels have radiators and central heating. Those in the old and charming Victorian-type wooden houses do not.
These are the ones I used:
Auckland Airport – Kiwi International Hotel – booked via the internet – 53 NZD – room is nothing special, rather cold
Rotorua – Crash Palace Backpackers – walked-in – 30 NZD a single with attached bathroom, normal heater, warm
http://rotoruabackpackers.crashpalace.co.nz/index.htm
Rotorua – Mirage Motel – walked-in – 65 NZD – apartment with 3 beds, kitchen, and bathroom, very hot
I need to specify that in Rotorua geothermal energy is used as a heating. Almost all hotels have a spa (the most expensive one per room) that exploit the thermal waters.
Whangarei – Fountain Lodge Motel – walked-in – 90 NZD a bungalow with three bedrooms, kitchen and cockroach in the closet, not great – cold room – only hot air heaters
http://www.fountainlodgemotel.co.nz/
Paihia – Saltwater Lodge – walked in – 60 NZD a room with 4 beds all to myself, very clean, warm (normal radiator)
http://www.saltwaterlodge.co.nz/
Coopers Beach – Doubtless Bay – Mangonui – walked in – 90 NZD, simple room, with kitchenette and bathroom, but exceptional views, in a lovely place – not very cold – small electric heater
Auckland Airport – Travellers’ International Hotel – booked via internet – 53 NZD – horrible, cold, dirty and noisy
http://www.travellersinternational.co.nz/
Auckland downtown – City Garden Lodge – booked via the internet – 60 NZD a room attached bathroom, I could perhaps find something better, but it was in a nice area (Parnell), in an old and typical wooden house with squeaky floors. A little cold, only electric radiators, but how water boules which did a great job
http://www.citygardenlodge.co.nz/
TRAVEL AROUND
Trains are not very popular, there is one line only, from Auckland to Wellington, very expensive.
There are public bus companies, and the so-called backpackers bus, like Kiwi Experience, Naked Bus, etc. Bookable by internet, some routes in promotion at 1 NZD, possible to buy various complete circuits, and stop whenever and wherever you want.
Connected with the local buses, I think you are able to go everywhere, but it takes more time, which is what I lack. So I opt for car rental.
The New Zealand agencies, Ezy, Ace Car Rentals, Pegasus, are much cheaper (half the price) than the classic Avis, Budget, Hertz.
It’s possible to rent old cars with high mileage at 19 NZD per day. That’s what I did, with Ace Car Rentals. Since I had specifically asked for manual transmission, they made an upgrade, offering me a new Korean compact car, which would cost 36 NZD, at the same price.
Totally, one week rental, including fully comprehensive insurance, costed me 289 NZD.
Much less than here, then.
http://www.acerentalcars.co.nz/
I must say that driving was not at all relaxing, and it’s not because the left drive. It is not easy to do it in a place you do not know, looking at the map at the same time not to get lost, while trying to enjoy the scenery! In addition, because of the time zone, for all week at 14.00 I already felt like sleeping, so I never tried to drive too long in the evening.
The roads are in good condition, but very twisty, even the NH1, the main one.
In short, what a drag, if I had taken the bus would have been more relaxing.
FOOD
To save money, I always cooked my things in the hostel. In the supermarket you can find everything, prices are a bit lower than Euroland.
As cheap food, hamburgers and hot dogs, fish and chips, and the famous meat pies, (which seemed and smelled like Whiskas).
In Auckland there are though plenty of cheap ethnic restaurants (in K Road you travel the world in a few steps), and shopping malls food courts. I saw huge sushi rolls (3 NZD) in a Korean restaurant near the Ferry Terminal. They looked healthy and appetizing.
I ate only three times in a restaurant, at the Fish Market and in a very cheap vegan restaurant in Auckland, in an awards winner restaurant in Paihia, at a fixed price menu
Some promotions are available for the “early birds”, from 17 (!!) to 19 ..
7/18
Landed after an eternal flight, where I slept most of the time, I get out unscathed from the immigration, baggage claim, customs rigmarole. I call the Kiwi International Hotel for free (53 NZD), which sends a shuttle to pick me up. All cheap hotels around the airport are run by Indians, and I must say that the difference with those run by New Zealanders is evident. The fitted carpet in my room is horrible, but at least deadens noises.
My car is booked for tomorrow. it seemed unwise to start driving after two days of flight. However, since I feel full of energy, and a bright sun shines, going to sleep seems wasted time, so, with bus nr. 328 I reach downtown. Buses have different rate depending on the urban zones, in the city centre the Link Bus Company runs a series of circular rides, 1.8 NZD.
Link Bus reaches all the most interesting places for tourists. With this bus I reach the Sky Tower, whose silhouette dominates the city. Inside, there are shops, casinos, restaurants, a tourist office and a souvenir shop
http://www.skycityauckland.co.nz/Attractions/Skytower.html
Entrance costs 28 NZD. I take this opportunity to admire the view at sunset, the weather in this season is unstable, I do not know if I will have a similar occasion.
I walk and explore the Queens Street area, buy a rechargeable Buzz phone card for 10 NZD, and I have dinner at a vegan restaurant right next to the Sky Tower, it is called Golden Age (8.90 NZD).
I try to return to the bus stop nr. 328, but I can not find it, and get lost. When it’s already 22.00, I think it is better to return to the airport with the 16 NZD shuttle bus, and from there take a taxi for the short ride to the Kiwi Hotel.
7/19
After a breakfast which is enough for Italians standards, the free shuttle takes me to the airport, and, after a free call, another free shuttle takes me to the Ace Car Rentals headquarters, less than 1 km from the terminal, where I take possession of a Daihatsu Sirion. Employees explain me how to reach the ring road, and then NH1 motorway. The New Zealand accent is not easy to understand, so I do repeat every word at least 3 times, and I even take notes.
However, I manage, and I find my route to Rotorua without too much trouble. The day is beautiful, but in some valley bottoms I precipitate into a thick fog which makes me panic. The landscape, in this alternation with blinding green meadows makes me think of being in a fairy tale! Everywhere there are flocks of sheep, even a few meters from the road.
I eat a quick lunch (7.20 NZD vegetable pie, tea and cake) at the Black Beagle Pub in Mangatarata, a village in the middle of the woods and reach Rotorua at around 16.00.
I stop my car at random in a toll parking, without paying, the first thing that I perceive is a nauseating smell of sulfur. I am right next to the lake. Being afraid to get a fine, my search for the hotel is rather hasty, and, after discarding some of the more expensive options, I choose the Crash Backpackers, 35 NZD a single without bathroom, but with a radiator !!
After having moved the car in a free parking lot, I stroll around the town. Especially the area around the Lake Rotorua, with beautiful Government Gardens and Polynesian Spa, the public baths.
Then a few souvenir shop. Through a very organized Visitors Centre, for 60 NZD I book a hangi at the Sudima Hotel, one of the ones previously discarded because of the price. I also ask for information on nearby attractions and how to reach them, they fill me with maps, and mark interesting streets with a pen.
The hangi is a traditional Maori dinner, with food cooked in an underground oven. The food is not that good. The show is rather pleasing, because the interpreters are good singers. Stories of Maori myths, customs, beliefs and traditions alternate to musical interludes. The show ends soon, because in New Zealand people use to eat very early, so I have time to go shopping at the Pack & Save, a large supermarkets chain.
7/20
Under a grey sky, but fortunately it’s not raining, I visit the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland (32.50 NZD). It is a large area that collects spectacular geological formations with the most different colors, depending on the materials composing the ground
There are geysers, fumaroles, small lakes with many different and wonderful colours. I am now used to this smell, but the steam benefits my respiratory system
The visit stretches along a guided hike, consisting of two rings, I decide to complete both of them, it takes at least three hours, even considering the time I lose to take pictures, since I have never seen a thing like this in my life
I have a quick meal at the entrance cafeteria (13:50 MZD), then I go to visit other pools of mud, which are free, being already out of the park
I end my day at Te Puia, (53 NZD including a show) another smaller and very nice thermal park. Here I assist to another Maori show. It’s also possible to visit some workshops of typical products, wood and fabrics, with people at work (among them, I recognized some of the warriors who had performed the haka in the before mentioned show).
I decide not to leave tonight, bus since I have already checked out at Crash Backpackers, I start looking for a new place. I settle at the Mirage Motel, very spacious, and well heated. There is also a common spa room
7/21
Time is short, the weather is not that good, the central plateau is covered with snow, and I decide not to go looking for too much trouble. After a quick visit to Lake Taupo, very grey and sad, like all lakes where the sun is missing, I reverse direction to north, determined to reach Whangarei. I checked my map, it’s all highway, it should be easy… The only toll charge, Auckland north, can be paid by internet or at some automatic machines located on the motorway in both directions. There is no real barrier.
I have no problem driving on the Auckland ring road, the bridge crossing is spectacular. After a while the motorway, when it is already dark, and it starts raining like hell, becomes … a normal road, full of curves. I arrive in Whangarei at 20.00, tired, I can not find the sea and therefore get oriented, so I stop in the first place I find, the Fountain Lodge Motel
22/7
After having asked some info at the Fountain Lodge owner, who speaks with an incomprehensible accent, I go to the discovery of the Tutukaka Coast, to see Whale Bay. However, after a hint of morning sun, the usual grey returns.
I arrive in Paihia, Bay of Islands capital, at around 14.00, under a heavy rain. It’s a small and very picturesque town, hotels, motels and hostels follow one another along the coast, or in the street behind. I get attracted by Saltwater Lodge, a luxury hostel, spotlessly clean
I stop to eat something in a little bar, then walk to Waitangi, the neighboring village, to visit the Treaty Grounds, which are one of the most important historical monuments of the country, they in fact mark the first agreement between British and Maori about the land division
Meanwhile the rain stopped. I have dinner in an elegant restaurant, the Lips. On display is shown a list of awards won, in fact dinner is exquisite, and also well presented! 26.50 NZD for a set menu which includes starter, main course and dessert.
7/23
At 8, when I go for a stroll, a bright sun shines, but unfortunately from the sea a thick fog is arriving. I had never seen fog on the sea, and I am fascinated by the spectacle
I leave Paihia directed towards Northland, Cape Reinga. The weather is strange, always changing, it seems to be in South Africa, Cape Town, in the same season.
I stop at Awanui at a gasoline station, the manager tells me that some roads are inaccessible because of the flooding of the rivers. I hope for the best, I would like to return to the Doubtless Bay this evening.
The path that from Awanui leads up to Cape Reinga is frankly unmissable.
I make a first stop in Waipapakauri Beach, to see the famous Beach 90 miles, then I stop again Pukenui, to photograph the nice little harbor
and then to Houhora Heads, where glittering green meadows silhouette against a deep blue and cloudless sky, dotted with fluffy clouds
The last stretch which separates me from the extreme north presents on one side grey clouds, big drops of rain, and a beautiful rainbow, and on the other side, blue sky and wind cirrus clouds. In the same time it’s raining, windy, sunny, rainbow, in short, I do not understand anything. Flocks of sheep, ubiquitous, graze quietly careless of my astonishment towards such a volatile weather, and the beauty of the landscape
I finally reach the lighthouse, the sun now shines, the wind has swept away all the clouds, and it is definitely hot. I am 18000 km far from London, and at the right antipodes with Italy! I never travelled so far away
Before going back and look for a place to sleep, I would still visit the Kari Kari Peninsula, but the road is flooded, so head to Mangonui, hoping to find a nice place to stop .
Near Coopers Beach, in front of a beautiful sunset
I veer to left, without even lighting the blinker (in fact the car behind me honks) towards the beach. There are almost only private homes. Fortunately, at the bottom of a steep descent I spot the San Marino Lodge, run by a lovely old couple, who offer me a beautiful room, and a glass of warm milk. The beach on which my terrace overlook is completely empty
I go down and walk. I’m super happy, because 1) it’s so quiet, I could not hear a pin drop 2) there is no other human being except me! It ‘s really an idyllic situation.
Back in the room, I leave the windows open (here it’s not very cold), to hear the sound of the waves while I cook.
7/24
Reluctantly I leave my room with a view, and I head to Mangonui, a scenic fishing village with wooden houses painted in bright colors. The village is virtually deserted, only few tourists around.
Before the sun disappears, I try again with Kari Kari Peninsula. The water that blocked the road is reabsorbed. I visit the Matai Bay and Kari Kari beaches, both deserted
Driving back to the Bay of Islands, I stop at Matauri Bay, whose waters guard the Greenpeace Rainbow Warrior wreck, sunk by the French as a retaliation for the protests to nuclear testing in Mururoa
Going further, I discover another lovely bay, Te Nganon Bay
The sky in the meantime gets cloudy again, but luckily it does not rain.
I then go back to Paihia, Saltwater Lodge. I make plans for the return. My flight to Rarotonga is on 26th, and same day I have to leave the car at the airport. I booked the Travellers’ International, close to the airport, for the 25th night.
The weather forecasts are awful : hail in Auckland, snow in Wellington and the rest of the country.
7/25
Afraid to get stuck somewhere, after a last walk in Paihia I u-turn to Auckland. The bridge crossing is spectacular, with awesome view on the city, and on the myriad of boats anchored at the port. The indications provided by the Travellers’ International are extremely concise, but in the end I manage to reach this dump, run by Indians, as cold as a refrigerator, and extremely noisy. The temperature has dropped significantly, the small electric heater is useless, I ask to an attendant to carry me another blanket.
The bed is horrible, the springs stick out of the very hard mattress, hurting my back. A nightmare, really!
7/26
I return the car at Ace Car Rentals, it’s not damaged, but it is difficult to control, because it is very dirty. Their expertise is rather superficial, they are nevertheless correct.
With their shuttle I go back to the airport. It is not worth going into town, so I look patiently for the boarding time
7/26 – 8/9 – Cook Islands
8/9
Landed in Auckland at 4.00, I sit down on a chair and wait for sunrise.
I take the 16 NZD bus to .the city centre and then, following Ian’s instructions, with Link Bus I reach my hostel. This is the City Garden Lodge, a bit older but located in a quiet and very pretty street in the picturesque neighborhood of Parnell, one of the oldest in town.
Here many houses (but not the one where I am, though), have been renewed, there are posh restaurants, art galleries, and an elegant appearance. My hostel is full of young people, some of them work or study here. I take a double room upstairs. The dormitories, common areas, kitchen, dining room (a bit cramped), and a comfortable living room with fireplace, armchairs, and a lot of books and board games are at the ground floor.
I feel cold, a rickety electric heater in my room is not enough. My last hope are the hot water boules! The bathrooms are not great, but I must say that the house is stylish, in some way.
I settle my thing, and then I am ready for the city. Now that I do not longer have a car, I finally feel on holiday in New Zealand.
First, since it is near, I head to the National Museum (10 NZD), located in a beautiful park, the Domain. There are several beautiful parks in the city (Albert Park, Myers Park, Victoria Park, Mont Eden).
http://www.aucklandmuseum.com/
The museum presents various indigenous art exhibits, coming from all the Pacific regions, including New Guinea. There are masks, cloaks of bird feathers, canoes, a full meeting house. I learn from notice boards on the walls how the Maori people arrived from Asia through the Bering Strait, and colonized the area, they oriented in the sea without any compass or other instrumentation
On foot, I head to the port, and the Fish Market. Here a bistro restaurant cooks fresh fish, in three different ways, combined with three different side dishes. Close to the tables, quality food and other fishes are displayed for sale. I start to look for souvenirs shop. Queens’ Street is full of them. There are shops run by New Zealanders, like The Great New Zealand Shop, that sell good quality products at more expensive prices, and close early, at 18.00. And then others run by Chinese, open till late, and sell mostly junk, at cheap prices.
While at the port, near the ferries terminal, I look at the prices of the Hauraki Gulf cruises.
8/10
Finally a bright sun, I take this opportunity to explore the Bay!
At 8.45 I am already waiting for the Link Bus which takes me downtown, at Britomart. From there, it’s a moment to get to Queens Wharf. Purchase tickets at 360 Discovery Cruises, it costs less (20 NZD), and touches more islands (one more, Motuihe) than Fuller (36 NZD) which, instead, gives a free return to Devonport.
It’s possible, on every island, to get on the following boat. I do not get off anywhere, and, when the cruise ends, I take the normal ferry to Devonport (11 NZD return), there are departures every half hour. Devonport is the closest inhabitated island, while others I have seen before, like Motuihe and Rangitoto, are deserted
I have no time, unfortunately, to dedicate to Waiheke.
The center of Devonport is charming, there are cafes and shops, a knowledgeable tourist office, they show me some hikes. The houses are beautiful, here, and with a fantastic view on the bay.
I head to the North Head, a crater of an old volcano, an oasis of peace, green fields, on which to relax, and enjoy the view
The sun keeps on shining, and I take off my jacket. I return to Auckland with the 15.00 ferry, then I go to Ponsonby with a Link Bus. It’s really not bad either, but I prefer Parnell. I pass through K Road, full of ethnic cheap restaurants. It would really be nice to eat there, but I still have a lot of food, and don’t want to waste it. Staying at the hostel in the evening, however, gives me the opportunity to meet very nice people. I get familiarity with 3 other girls, much younger than me, who are here for working or studying.
8/11
The morning starts badly, sun but also ugly grey clouds. The weather forecasts are horrible. As long as it does not rain, I think, better to go to Mount Eden for a walk, and then go to Acquarium. Mount Eden is not in the Link Bus circuit, but the central tourist board, on the Quay, gives me a map of all city buses. Bus 277 goes in my direction. Even Mount Eden is a dormant volcano, in a clean park
It’s is forbidden to walk in the crater, because it’s a sacred place to Maori, and there are ban signs everywhere. Two minivans full of Chinese tourists arrive, and what is the first thing those idiots do? Sling off in the caldera, screaming loudly to hear their echo. What boors!
Back in the center, I wait for the noon free shuttle to Kelly Tarlton’s Aquarium (30.60 NZD). The aquarium is a little far, on Tamaki Drive, from which there is a beautiful view of the city
Even here, beautiful houses. The Aquarium disappoints me a bit , as it happened in Singapore
8/12
At 17. 45 a plane takes me back home. Ian books a shuttle for me, 28 NZD. It costs more than Air Bus (16), but it saves me a lot of tiredness, and luggage storage at the Britomart Central Station.
I go back to Queen’s Street to complete my shopping, and allow myself a lavish lunch, finally, at the Fish Market (12.90 NZD), to end the holiday with dignity